A Legered Meal: Luce, Portland, Oregon

A life skill one picks up in college is surviving on pasta (or ramen, but that’s another story). Unfortunately, this has the side effect of making Italian food seem prosaic. Spaghetti with "meat" sauce becomes a culinary punchline. Eventually, you graduate to “fancier” options—chain restaurants cloaked in upscale branding—and, if you're lucky, find your way to a place like Luce.

Tucked at the corner of Burnside and Southeast 22nd Avenue, Luce offers mindfully prepared comfort food for early birds who snag a table and for the patient ones who don't mind the wait (if you arrive after 6 PM, you're in the latter camp). It’s our "regular rotation special occasion" spot—which may sound contradictory, but is meant as high praise. This place is fantastic.

The pastas are a textural and flavor revelation, putting to shame anything I might attempt at home. This is the work of professionals. My personal go-to is the à la carte hanger steak: no frills, just quality—each bite bolstered by a lightly crisped rosemary sprig that functions less as garnish and more as condimental companion. It's a masterclass in restraint and execution.

The antipasti deserve their own spotlight. The olives and focaccia were made for each other, the olives’ oil doubling as a dip for the salt-flecked bread. The marinated beets and roasted sweet peppers (with delightfully sneaky peppercorns) were so good, we ordered another round.

With a meal this stellar, we have to pace our visits lest we become too accustomed to Luce’s delights. I can’t tell you exactly when we were here last, but I know it was too long—and somehow, also just right.